An alpine trek before an overnight cruise.
Stunning alpine views, an abundance of waterfalls and a relaxing cruise in Milford Sound. My travel buddy and I came away confident that we traveled New Zealand's Fjordland the right way: roughing it for gasp-inducing scenery and splurging for a post-hike overnight cruise in Milford Sound, the most popular of New Zealand’s majestic fjords. We followed the proven formula of roughing it before luxury, or instead of luxury, merely a comfortable, shower-filled, buffet-side existence. We met travelers who were doing the reverse and felt sorry for them. Best to do the trek before rewarding oneself with a relaxing cruise.
The Milford Sound trek may claim fame as one of the world’s greatest walks. We had heard that the Routeburn proves more interesting in its ecological diversity and choice places to stay along the way. More than 13,000 people a year do the twenty-eight kilometer trek, making it one of New Zealand's busiest. After viewing wildflowers, glacier lakes and quite possibly the forests from Middle Earth, we stand by our original position.
The Milford Sound trek may claim fame as one of the world’s greatest walks. We had heard that the Routeburn proves more interesting in its ecological diversity and choice places to stay along the way. More than 13,000 people a year do the twenty-eight kilometer trek, making it one of New Zealand's busiest. After viewing wildflowers, glacier lakes and quite possibly the forests from Middle Earth, we stand by our original position.
Three things I wish I had brought on the Routeburn Trek:
1. a book or at least a New Yorker
2. comfy clothes. I had prepared for the elements, but not a cozy evening next to a woodstove
3. ear plugs. Even if you are a sound sleeper, 24 people in a bunk room means snorers and sleeping bag rustling
pesto comes in a distant fourth.
.
The Routeburn Falls Hut
We booked the Routeburn trek for the peak summer season. This required a booking on the New Zealand's Department of Conversation site three months beforehand. We booked the Routeburn Falls Hut for the first night due to its prime location at 1000 meters above a valley.
Track transport served a the next item on the checklist. Info and Track, partnered with Track Net, provides a convenient transportation service to and from trail heads and onward to Milford Sound. One small gripe: there is no online booking system on the site. Staff do, however, respond quickly to booking inquiries and will securely handle credit card transactions.
We used Info and Track for our outbound journey from Queenstown to the Routeburn trek start and again from the finish of the hike in the Divide to the Milford Sound cruise center. When we jumped on the bus we were surprised to see a veritable slough of trekkers get on board with us.
Track transport served a the next item on the checklist. Info and Track, partnered with Track Net, provides a convenient transportation service to and from trail heads and onward to Milford Sound. One small gripe: there is no online booking system on the site. Staff do, however, respond quickly to booking inquiries and will securely handle credit card transactions.
We used Info and Track for our outbound journey from Queenstown to the Routeburn trek start and again from the finish of the hike in the Divide to the Milford Sound cruise center. When we jumped on the bus we were surprised to see a veritable slough of trekkers get on board with us.
view from above the Routeburn Falls Shelter
Day 1: Routeburn Shelter to Routeburn Falls Hut
The drive from Queenstown took two hours, including a photo stop on Lake Wakatipu and bathroom break in Glenorchy.
The first day involved a gentle lob up into the hills from to Routeburn Falls hut. Highlights included rope bridges and several views of snow-capped mountains. The best view, however, had to be on the top at the Routeburn Falls Hut. We had a view of the valley from where we had just ascended. Dinner included the very easy to eat Back Country Cuisine, a Kiwi camping meal available at nearly all outdoor stores in Queenstown. Entrees range from Thai curry to muesli and even cheesecake. Just add water. Whatever the dish, the meat seems the exact shape and size of Starburst candy. An Aussie girl we met on the trail made the point that the Back Country packaging does not ever feature an image--or even a stylized image--of what the food looks like prepared. That being said, a 12 ounce packet beat heavier fresh food. All of the four meals we had were edible, and I would again have the roast chicken and potatoes. Other trampers swear by the Tikka Masala and Chicken Curry.
The drive from Queenstown took two hours, including a photo stop on Lake Wakatipu and bathroom break in Glenorchy.
The first day involved a gentle lob up into the hills from to Routeburn Falls hut. Highlights included rope bridges and several views of snow-capped mountains. The best view, however, had to be on the top at the Routeburn Falls Hut. We had a view of the valley from where we had just ascended. Dinner included the very easy to eat Back Country Cuisine, a Kiwi camping meal available at nearly all outdoor stores in Queenstown. Entrees range from Thai curry to muesli and even cheesecake. Just add water. Whatever the dish, the meat seems the exact shape and size of Starburst candy. An Aussie girl we met on the trail made the point that the Back Country packaging does not ever feature an image--or even a stylized image--of what the food looks like prepared. That being said, a 12 ounce packet beat heavier fresh food. All of the four meals we had were edible, and I would again have the roast chicken and potatoes. Other trampers swear by the Tikka Masala and Chicken Curry.
Day 2: Routeburn Falls Hut to Howden Hut
The next morning we made our pass the Routeburn falls into another valley, then up to the Harris Saddle,1255 meters at its highest. We hugged the mountain above the treeline, looking down at the Hollyford river as we meandered around a peak and made our slow way down to Mackenzie hut. The slow descent from above the bushline to shrubbery and then to forest made us feel sorry for those traveling in the opposite direction. For more than one and a half hours before we eventually made it to the Mackenzie hut we could see the structure down below, next to an elegantly blue glacial lake. We could imagine how disheartening it would be for ascending climbers who could never get away from their morning starting point.
After a short break at the Mackenzie hut, we started again. Given its beautiful location, part of me wishes we would have stayed at Mackenzie Hut. But I am glad that we pushed on and got a fully day of hiking instead of stopping for the day after only a three hour hike. After Lake Mackenzie, most of our journey rested below the treeline and provided sheltered from the rain. A highlight served as the descent into a fern and mountain beech forest.
We found ourselves in the afternoon at Howden Hut, one of the least visited huts on a popular trail. John, the resident ranger, believes this is due to its close—1.5 hour—distance from the trail's end at The Divide. The rain continued and we wondered why we had to venture outside in the rain to head to the loo. Perhaps it was due to the fact that we hadn’t showered for two days and a little rain could do us good.
Only seven hikers had booked the twenty-two bed hut. We sat around the wood stove and talked over dinner. Another group of campers had brought basil pesto, which filled the room with a basil smell. The other campers and I had Back Country cuisine and were jealous of the fresh food. In the summers New Zealand the sun does not go down until at least 10:30 and I wish I had brought a book to read and some comfy clothes. We had prepared for the elements but not a cozy evening inside by the fire. Also, I wish I had ear plugs.
The next morning we made our pass the Routeburn falls into another valley, then up to the Harris Saddle,1255 meters at its highest. We hugged the mountain above the treeline, looking down at the Hollyford river as we meandered around a peak and made our slow way down to Mackenzie hut. The slow descent from above the bushline to shrubbery and then to forest made us feel sorry for those traveling in the opposite direction. For more than one and a half hours before we eventually made it to the Mackenzie hut we could see the structure down below, next to an elegantly blue glacial lake. We could imagine how disheartening it would be for ascending climbers who could never get away from their morning starting point.
After a short break at the Mackenzie hut, we started again. Given its beautiful location, part of me wishes we would have stayed at Mackenzie Hut. But I am glad that we pushed on and got a fully day of hiking instead of stopping for the day after only a three hour hike. After Lake Mackenzie, most of our journey rested below the treeline and provided sheltered from the rain. A highlight served as the descent into a fern and mountain beech forest.
We found ourselves in the afternoon at Howden Hut, one of the least visited huts on a popular trail. John, the resident ranger, believes this is due to its close—1.5 hour—distance from the trail's end at The Divide. The rain continued and we wondered why we had to venture outside in the rain to head to the loo. Perhaps it was due to the fact that we hadn’t showered for two days and a little rain could do us good.
Only seven hikers had booked the twenty-two bed hut. We sat around the wood stove and talked over dinner. Another group of campers had brought basil pesto, which filled the room with a basil smell. The other campers and I had Back Country cuisine and were jealous of the fresh food. In the summers New Zealand the sun does not go down until at least 10:30 and I wish I had brought a book to read and some comfy clothes. We had prepared for the elements but not a cozy evening inside by the fire. Also, I wish I had ear plugs.
Day 3: Howden Hut to the Divide, and on to Milford Sound
I awake from a late sleep without headphones at 8:30. It was hard to sleep at night as I had a 50 degree Fahrenheit and above bag and I feel like the temperature was at 50. The snoring campers who kept me up have already gotten up.
After a morning coffee, we packed our bags but left them in the hut for a morning jaunt up Key Summit. Although it would require us to back track to Howden Hut, we found it worth it for the views of Lake Marian, the Hollyford valley and the Humboldt mountains.
On our return from the hut we had lunch--ah yes, Back Country Cuisine--and made our way down to the Divide. When I say "down," I mean it, as I felt sorry for those going the other direction. We passed many day hikers, who stop here as this part of the trail pops out on the Milford-Te Anau road. Our transportation, provided by Track Net/Info and Track, showed up 45 minutes late and the driver claimed the Te Anau police stopped him. (Late in Te Anau we saw the local police with a bag of meat pies in front of a local milk bar. hard at work ;) )
We had a cushion of time so the delay didn't faze us. It was only 3PM by this time and our cruise did not board until 4:20PM. But by this time we have not showered for three days and looked forward to a hot shower.
I awake from a late sleep without headphones at 8:30. It was hard to sleep at night as I had a 50 degree Fahrenheit and above bag and I feel like the temperature was at 50. The snoring campers who kept me up have already gotten up.
After a morning coffee, we packed our bags but left them in the hut for a morning jaunt up Key Summit. Although it would require us to back track to Howden Hut, we found it worth it for the views of Lake Marian, the Hollyford valley and the Humboldt mountains.
On our return from the hut we had lunch--ah yes, Back Country Cuisine--and made our way down to the Divide. When I say "down," I mean it, as I felt sorry for those going the other direction. We passed many day hikers, who stop here as this part of the trail pops out on the Milford-Te Anau road. Our transportation, provided by Track Net/Info and Track, showed up 45 minutes late and the driver claimed the Te Anau police stopped him. (Late in Te Anau we saw the local police with a bag of meat pies in front of a local milk bar. hard at work ;) )
We had a cushion of time so the delay didn't faze us. It was only 3PM by this time and our cruise did not board until 4:20PM. But by this time we have not showered for three days and looked forward to a hot shower.
One of the larger cruise boats visiting Milford Sound
At a glance: Real Journeys overnight cruise on the Milford Wanderer
Pros: excellent and cheerful service, tasty and high quality food in large portions, a relaxing cruise in Milford Sound without other boats crowding around the sights, a very hot shower after a trek
Cons: price, the bar closes at 10 pm
Afternoon of Day 3 to Day 4: Milford Sound Cruise
We arrived at the Milford visitor center with ample time to catch the boat. Boarding started promptly at 4:30PM. The Milford Mariner, our boat, has space for 60 pax but we only counted 24 in the boarding line.
We chose Real Journeys for the overnight cruise The company offers two boats: one, the Milford Wanders offers bunk bed lodging in shared accommodation; the Milford Mariner offered private cabins and a double bed, if you asked. The high season price tag seemed expensive at $780 NZ for two people but we had just been roughing it on the trek and wanted something comfortable.
We were not disappointed, but the cruise is not a 5 star affair. Alcohol is extra, although not overpriced. We had the opportunity to see sea lions, often incorrectly called seals. In fact, one largish and unafraid sea lion popped up in the evening on the deck at the stern of the ship .
The dinner and breakfast buffets earns high marks for quality. The fish ceviche, with scallops, fish and squid was especially tasty. For the main course we had lamb and prime rib. The staff brought out a live lobster for us to admire but strangely, lobster did not not feature on the menu. Why did they tease us?
Overall, however, Real Journeys is one of the only overnight cruises in Milford Sound. We were happy, but did not find any value, given the high price tag. That being said, New Zealand is pricey, but the cruise price did seem overpriced for Americans with a weak dollar these days. The service on board, however, stands out as exceptional.
Stay tuned for posts from Christchurch!
We arrived at the Milford visitor center with ample time to catch the boat. Boarding started promptly at 4:30PM. The Milford Mariner, our boat, has space for 60 pax but we only counted 24 in the boarding line.
We chose Real Journeys for the overnight cruise The company offers two boats: one, the Milford Wanders offers bunk bed lodging in shared accommodation; the Milford Mariner offered private cabins and a double bed, if you asked. The high season price tag seemed expensive at $780 NZ for two people but we had just been roughing it on the trek and wanted something comfortable.
We were not disappointed, but the cruise is not a 5 star affair. Alcohol is extra, although not overpriced. We had the opportunity to see sea lions, often incorrectly called seals. In fact, one largish and unafraid sea lion popped up in the evening on the deck at the stern of the ship .
The dinner and breakfast buffets earns high marks for quality. The fish ceviche, with scallops, fish and squid was especially tasty. For the main course we had lamb and prime rib. The staff brought out a live lobster for us to admire but strangely, lobster did not not feature on the menu. Why did they tease us?
Overall, however, Real Journeys is one of the only overnight cruises in Milford Sound. We were happy, but did not find any value, given the high price tag. That being said, New Zealand is pricey, but the cruise price did seem overpriced for Americans with a weak dollar these days. The service on board, however, stands out as exceptional.
Stay tuned for posts from Christchurch!